It’s famous for all things lemon flavored, cycling, and temples by the sea and it’s ridiculously charming.
Onomichi is a town in Hiroshima prefecture. When I tried to find a hostel in Hiroshima city, they were all booked. A quick google search of the surrounding towns pointed out that Onomichi was close by and had great views of the ocean.
There is a path that runs through the city that follows temples propped up on the side of the hill. People ride their bikes and cars onto the ferry to get to the island across from the train station. There are a dozen little Italian restaurants on one long shopping street. People whistle as they ride their bikes through town. They walk their dogs and eat snacks with their friends while looking out at the ocean. They don’t seem to be in any hurry.
You can ride a bike across the ocean to Shikoku, the smallest of Japan’s main islands. If you are a biking enthusiast, this is the place to be. I’ve seen several people decked out in cycling gear, looking like they are ready to hit the Tour de France.
I walked up in the hills to look in the temples once it got darker. It was about 88 degrees instead of 95 once the sun went down.
You can take a train to Onomichi station from Hiroshima or Fukuyama, those stations have bullet trains running through them. As soon as you leave Onomichi station, you are met by the port. There are plenty of benches so you can sit and watch the boats go by. I was trying to not play on my phone so much while I was there. I felt no need to get out my phone while enjoying the sea breeze, and everyone else around me seemed content with not being glued to their devices.